Do I need to add a sanitizer regularly?
Yes, an E.P.A. registered sanitizer should be added and maintained at proper levels at all times. Non-chlorine shock treatments contain no chlorine, therefore you must make regular additions of sanitizer to ensure that you are disinfecting the water.
Do I need to shock treat my swimming pool?
You may need to shock treat your swimming pool. If the chemical balance of the pool water is correct and there are no filtration problems (clogged filter, sand needs replacing, filter needs backwashing), then cloudy pool water or dull water may be corrected with a flocculant. In the event that this fails to clear the pool water, you can try a shock treatment. Algae growth may also need a shock treatment.
Following chemical treatment, how long do I have to wait before I use my pool?
With the exception of superchlorinating (which requires waiting until the chlorine level drops to recommended levels), you can generally use your pool when the chemical is dispersed throughout the pool. Fifteen minutes to one hour is a good rule of thumb.
How much chlorine should I have in my pool?
You will determine if enough chlorine is in the pool through testing. The ideal range for free chlorine in the swimming pool is between 1.5 and 3 ppm (parts per million). Being at the low range (1.5 ppm) is sufficient at lower temperatures but as the temperature climes you will want to be closer to the upper end of this range (3 ppm).
How often should I shock my pool?
You must shock your pool every 1 - 2 weeks on a regular basis. The pool also needs to be shocked after periods of heavy use, heavy rain, when the water is hazy or when algae growth is visible.
How often should I use algaecide in my pool?
Algaecide should be added to your pool water on a weekly basis. Follow the directions on the label to determine how much to use.
I added algaecide to my pool, but the algae didn't go away. What did I do wrong?
First, you must add the algaecide according to the directions. If you don't add the correct dosage amount, it won't kill any of the algae. However, be aware that using the entire bottle of algaecide is also ineffective. Not only will you spend additional money, large doses can also lead to staining and foaming in your pool.
In addition to properly dosing your water, it is also recommended that the algaecide be added in the morning on a bright sunny day for best results. Algae are plants and grow in the presence of sunlight. Adding algaecide during algae's best growth time will increase intake of the algaecide and make it more effective. If black algae is present, brushing the algae at least once daily will also help expedite algae removal. Brushing the dead cells away makes the living algae more vulnerable to the algaecide.
I have heard of people talking about pink algae. What is that and how do I treat it?
Pink algae is not an algae at all, but a bacteria. Normal algaecides will not reliably work on them. We have products that are designed to assist chlorine with removal of this bacteria. To eliminate pink algae, you must superchlorinate your pool, turn off the filter, and clean it with a good filter cleaner. Let the filter soak overnight then backwash to waste. Let the chlorine level subside before using again. (Hint: a good rule of thumb is to toss into the pool the equipment that is normally used for pool maintenance, including hoses, brushes, etc. prior to superchlorinating. These need to be disinfected too).
My pool has a very strong chlorine odor. Is there too much chlorine in my pool?
No, you don't have enough "free chlorine" in your pool. Most pools contain both good chlorine and bad chlorine. The good chlorine is called free chlorine and is capable of killing germs. Bad chlorine, on the other hand, is called "combined chlorine" and is a poor germ killer.
Too much combined chlorine in your pool causes the strong chlorine odor. When the combined chlorine level reaches 0.2 ppm or more, it is time to shock your water. Shocking will eliminate the odor.
My pool water is cloudy and I can't clear it up. What could be causing this?
First, check to make sure that the pH is within proper range. If the pH is within range, it could be that you have a dirty filter and it needs to be cleaned. Check to make sure the sanitizer (chlorine) in the pool is in proper range. If it is not, raise the level. Another cause could be the amount of calcium in the water. If too much calcium is present, it can become cloudy. Adding a sequestering agent, on a weekly basis, can prevent this. Lastly, particles too small to be easily filtered out could be causing the cloudiness. A clarifier can be used in order to make these particles filterable.
Should I use a water clarifier in my pool?
Yes. A clarifier is designed as an aid to the efficient operation of the filter by coagulating most materials, which cause cloudy and hazy water, into larger particles that are removed by the filter. Because the presence of these materials increases the disinfectant demand, the use of a water clarifier decreases pool maintenance costs.
What are enzyme based cleaners and how do they work?
Basically, enzymes are substances that speed up chemical reactions. In the case of enzyme based cleaners, they are designed to speed up the process of breaking down oils, proteins, etc. that may be in your pool. Enzymes will break up very large particles into smaller ones that can be handled more easily by your sanitizer. Regular use of an enzyme will help reduce scum line buildup and free up your sanitizer for the work it was intended to do-sanitizing.
What are the recommended levels I should look for when testing my pool water?
pH: 7.2 - 7.8
Chlorine: 1.0 - 2.0 ppm
Total Alkalinity: 80 - 120 ppm
Calcium Hardness: 180 - 220 ppm, though some say 200 - 400.
Cyanuric Acid: 25 - 50 ppm
Total Dissolved Solids:: 500 - 5000 ppm
What Chemical levels do I need to test for regularly?
The four main tests to perform with a test kit are pH, chlorine (or other sanitizer residual), Total Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness. Cyanuric Acid levels, mineral content, Total Dissolved Solids and Acid or Base Demand tests may also be performed as needed
What does pH mean?
pH measures the acidity or alkalinity. The optimal range for pH in pool water is from 7.2 - 7.6 . pH can fluctuate over the course of the season due to rainfall and/or the addition of water to your swimming pool. Whatever the cause of fluctuation in pH level the important thing will be to correct the pH by adding pH increaser if the pH is below 7.2 and pH decreaser if the level of pH rises above 7.6 .
What is the correct water level in my pool?
The water level in a swimming pool should be at the center of the through the wall skimmer.
What should I do to keep my pool clean?
To ensure a clean, clear swimming pool, your efforts should be concentrated in two major areas: maintaining or adjusting the chemical balance of the pool water, and removing the unwanted dirt and foreign particles from the swimming pool. In order to remove unwanted substances from the swimming pool, we rely on a water circulation and a filtration system. Regular brushing and vacuuming of your swimming pool ensures a minimum of foreign material in the pool water. Of course we also need to clean the filter itself and replace the fitration medium when necessary
When I shock my pool, should I use chlorine or non-chlorine shock?
Both treatments accomplish the goal of destroying and removing bather waste and preventing the formation of combined chlorine.
Superchlorination, the addition of large amounts of chlorine, has some drawbacks. Because it requires large amounts of chlorine, it can damage liners and swimsuits and upset water balance. Additionally, it is difficult to determine proper dosage amounts and it requires swimmers to wait until the level of chlorine drops, often a day or more, until they can swim.
Non-chlorine shock, on the other hand, does not require excessive chlorine use and allows swimming almost immediately after application, does not harm liners, has easily determined dosage rates and does not upset water balance.
When I test for pH I get a purple color. What does that mean?
If your reagents are in good condition, a purple color in a pH test is an indication of chlorine levels being too high and interfering with the test. Add a drop of thiosulfate reagent to remove the chlorine from a new sample, and test again.
Why do I need to shock my pool?
Pool water composition always includes some undesirable elements that actually contaminate the water and reduce the efficiency of the disinfectant or sanitizer. Material such as hair spray, suntan oil, cosmetics, perspiration and other organic material react to combine with the chlorine in the water to form "combined chlorine".
Once "combined chlorine" forms, it acts as a very poor disinfectant, contributing to eye and skin irritations and the forming of unpleasant chlorine odor. Pools with this problem are often inaccurately accused of having too much chlorine.
Routine shock treatment is necessary to destroy combined chlorine compounds and restore the chlorine sanitizer to "free chlorine" efficiency. A pool can be shock treated by adding large doses of chlorine, commonly referred to as superchlorination, or by adding a non-chlorine shock such as Blue Wave's No-Chlor Shock Treatment.
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