Minden Master Propane Gas Grill

Minden Outdoor Propane Gas Grill

Minden Gas Grill

Portable Propane Gas Grill

The Minden Master Propane Gas Grill was created to offer an alternative to typical barbeque grilling products. With its many features, this grill outshines comparable propane gas grills. The Minden Master Gas Grill is designed for experienced chefs as well as the novice user. The grill is not bulky, but it packs a powerful punch with 30,000 BTUs of heat and 3 burners.

The full-size Minden Master Gas Grill is designed to fit your outdoor living lifestyle without overwhelming your outdoor space. This grill has taken a “less is more” approach, yielding a superior product.

A standard grill comes with the following

  • Dishwasher-safe condiment tray
    The condiment tray doubles as your extended work surface. The lid lifts to expose a handy tray with recessed areas to store your relishes, barbeque sauce, and even utensils.
  • Dishwasher-safe cutting board
    The cutting board has a unique self healing design. It is made of polypropylene. One side is flush with the grilling surface for general cutting. The other side has a lip around the entire cutting board for cutting meats.
  • Push-button start, no batteries
    The push button electronic ignition starter doesn’t need batteries. It provides a continuous spark for easy lighting.
  • Porcelain-coated heavy gauge steel grate
    Easy-glide, non-obstructive lid.
  • Slide-out propane tank tray
    The slide out propane tank tray makes installation a breeze. *Propane Tank NOT included.*
  • Built-in temperature gauge
    You will never over cook your best steak with this built in temperature gauge. Cook with precise perfection.
  • Assembly Tool
    The grill comes with one tool, the only tool needed to assemble the unit.
  • Warranty
    Minden Grill Company is focused on providing you with the best working, longest lasting propane gas grill. Receive a limited 1-year, end-to-end warranty on all parts. Rather than provide 90 days of warranty on some parts, 1 year on others, and 5 years on the unbreakable portions of the grill, we provide a one-year warranty on ALL parts. This warranty does not apply to parts that have been damaged by the user, nor does it apply to grills that have been damaged due to mishandling. Warranty claims will only be honored for registered owners of the grill.

This power packed grill comes with many accessories as well as four different colors to match any outdoor decor.

The colors that are available are Black, Green, Red and Blue.

Misting Fans

Misting Fans help beat the heat

Outdoor Misting Fan

Misting Fans help beat the heat and improve your outdoor experience.

One of the most popular spots at the zoo or amusement park on hot summer days is not necessarily one of the main attractions. It’s the misting stations that draw in a consistent crowd eager to feel cool and refreshed before moving onto the next wild animal or wild ride. Creating your own personal misting station is much easier, much more pleasant, and much less expensive than spending hot summer days with the family at a pricey zoo or park. The way to accomplish this is with a misting fan.

Misting fans bring together the refreshing mist of water with the cool breeze generated by a fan. This combination cools more effectively than just mist or just a fan alone. In fact, a misting fan can reduce the surrounding air temperature by as much as 30 degrees, making it possible to feel comfortable on your back patio or deck even on the hottest days. Better quality misting fans are able to cool an area 200 square feet or more in size, which makes the misting fan ideal not only for home use, but also for commercial and industrial use. Outdoor cafes, construction sites, and sporting events are just a few of the places where misting fans would be welcomed and appreciated.

When shopping for a misting fan for your home or workplace, there are a couple of features you will want to insist upon having. Most misting fans are mounted on top of a water reservoir, many of which can hold anywhere from 5 to 10 gallons of water. Better misting fans, no matter what the capacity, should be able to run, when starting with a full reservoir, up to 4 or 5 hours long without needing a refill. Additionally, be sure to choose a misting fan that comes with attached, locking wheels or a convenient cart so that it is easy to move and store away.

Optional features are available that can enhance the quality of your misting fan experience. For example, some misting fans have variable speeds, allowing you more control. Another particularly handy feature in a misting fan is a telescoping post that allows the fan to be adjusted easily for height. Also, some fans oscillate to more efficiently distribute the cooling mist in the surrounding area.

No matter what features you choose, having your own misting fan at home or work can significantly improve your level of comfort, even on the hottest of days. Because they provide so much relief from the heat, misting fans at home can help you enjoy your patio or deck more fully, and at work, misting fans can increase your productivity and make working outdoors much more pleasant.

Swimming Pool Chemistry Dictionary


Chemical Terminology for Swimming Pools – Swimming Pool Chemistry 101


A chemical substance containing hydrogen with the ability to dissolve metals, neutralize alkaline materials and combine with bases to form salts. Acid is used to lower (decrease) pH and total alkalinity of swimming pool and spa water. Examples are muriatic acid (hydrochloric) and dry acid (sodium bisulfate).


The amount of acid required to bring high pH and total alkalinity down to their proper levels. Determined by an acid demand test.


Microscopic aquatic plant life that contain chlorophyll. Algae are nourished by carbon dioxide (C02) and use sunlight to carry out photosynthesis. It is introduced by rain or wind and grows in colonies producing nuisance masses. Algae are not disease-causing, but can harbor bacteria, create a high chlorine demand, and it is slippery. There are 21,000 known species of algae. The most common pool types are black, blue-green, green and mustard (yellow or brown). Pink or red-colored algae-like organisms exist but are bacteria and not algae. Maintaining proper sanitizer levels, brushing and super-chlorination will help prevent its occurrence.


Also called algaecide. A natural or synthetic chemical designed to kill, destroy or control algae.


Also called total alkalinity. A measure of the pH-buffering capacity of water or water’s resistance to change in pH. Composed of the hydroxides, carbonates and bicarbonates in the water. One of the basic water tests necessary to determine water balance.


Introduced into the water by swimmers as waste (perspiration or urine) or by other means. Quickly forms foul-smelling, body irritating chloramines- an undesirable, less effective form of chlorine. See CHLORAMINES or COMBINED CHLORINE.


The amount of chlorine in the pool water that is available to sanitize or disinfect the water. Sometimes called residual chlorine.


The correct ratio of mineral content and pH level that prevents the water from being corrosive or scale forming.


By-products formed when bromine reacts with swimmer waste (perspiration or urine), nitrogen or fertilizer. Bromamines are active disinfectants and do not have an odor.


A mechanical or electrical device for dispensing bromine at a controlled rate. Most often a tank, canister or floater filled with tablets of bromine.


A halogen element in the same group as chlorine and fluorine. Also a common name for several chemical compounds containing bromine that are used as disinfectants to destroy bacteria and algae in swimming pools and spas. Most commonly available as organic bromine in a tablet or granular, or as sodium bromide, a granular salt.


A substance or compound that stabilizes the pH value of a solution. It is also the water’s resistance to change in pH.


The calcium content of the water. Calcium hardness is sometimes confused with the terms water hardness and total hardness. Too little calcium hardness and the water is corrosive. Too much calcium hardness and the water is scale forming. One of the basic water tests necessary to determine water balance. Minimum level is 150 ppm. Ideal range is 200-400 ppm.


Copper algaecides that contain a special ingredient to prevent the copper from staining the pool walls and bottom or producing colored water.


Undesirable, foul-smelling, body-irritating compounds formed when insufficient levels of free available chlorine react with ammonia and other nitrogen containing compounds (swimmer and bather waste, fertilizer, perspiration, urine, etc.). Chloramines are still disinfectants, but they are a much weaker, ineffective form of chlorine. Chloramines are removed by super-chlorination or shock treating.


A mechanical or electrical device for dispensing chlorine at a controlled rate. Most often a tank, canister or floater filled with tablets of chlorine.


A term used to describe any type of chlorine compound used as a disinfectant in swimming pool and spa water or to kill, destroy or control bacteria and algae. In addition, chlorine oxidizes ammonia and nitrogen compounds (swimmer and bather waste).


The amount of chlorine necessary to oxidize all organic matter (bacteria, algae, chloramines, ammonia, and nitrogen compounds) in the pool or spa water.


The amount of chlorine left in the pool or spa water after the chlorine demand has been satisfied.


Also called coagulant or flocculant. A chemical compound used to gather (coagulate or agglomerate), or to precipitate suspended particles so they may be removed by vacuuming or filtration. There are two types; inorganic salts of aluminum (alum) or water-soluble organic polyelectrolytes.


An organic polyelectrolyte used to gather (coagulate) suspended particles in the water.


Undesirable, foul-smelling, body-irritating compounds formed when insufficient levels of free available chlorine react with ammonia and other nitrogen-containing compounds (swimmer and bather waste, fertilizer, perspiration, urine, etc.). Combined chlorine is still a disinfectant, but it is a much weaker, ineffective form of chlorine.


Also called stabilizer or cyanuric acid. It is a chemical that slows down the degradation of chlorine in the water by sunlight. The minimum effective level is 20 ppm as measured by a test kit. Very high levels of Cyanuric acid (above 300 ppm) can slow down chlorine activity or effectiveness. Conditioner does not protect bromine from sunlight.


A chemical compound that contains the element copper. Copper sulfate was one of the original copper algaecides. Too much copper in the water can cause green-colored stains or water. Newer copper algaecides contain an ingredient that prevents the copper from staining but does not affect copper’s ability to kill algae. These special copper algaecides are called chelated copper algaecides.


Also called conditioner or stabilizer, this chemical compound protects chlorine in the water from being destroyed by sunlight. The minimum level is 20 ppm. Very high levels of Cyanuric acid (above 300 ppm) can slow down chlorine activity or effectiveness. Cyanuric acid does not protect bromine from sunlight.


Diatomaceous Earth Filter. A filter designed to use diatomaceous earth (D.E.) as the filter medium. The D.E. is added through the skimmer with the pump on, which takes the D.E. and deposits it on a grid. The D.E. then becomes the filter medium.


Also called D.E. powder. A white powder composed of fossilized skeletons of one celled organisms called diatoms. The skeletons are porous and have microscopic spaces. The powder is added through the skimmer with the pump on, which takes the D.E. and deposits it on a grid. The D.E. then becomes the filter medium.


The common name for sodium dichloroisocyanurate. A fast dissolving chlorine compound containing chlorine and cyanuric acid (stabilizer or conditioner). It has a neutral pH and is quick dissolving, so it can be used for regular chlorination or super-chlorination.


Chemically, sodium bisulfate. A dry white crystal that produces acid when added to water. It is used for lowering pH and total alkalinity. Safer to handle than muriatic acid.


The water that flows out of a pump, filter or heater, usually on its way back to the pool or spa.


A chemical compound added to the water or to the filter that allows the existing filter to become more efficient. Examples are alum, water clarifiers and D.E. powder.


The clump or aggregate formed when suspended particles combine with a flocculating agent. See


The combination, agglomeration, aggregation or coagulation of suspended particles in such a way that they form small clumps (called a FLOC).


The amount of active chlorine in the pool or spa water that is available to sanitize or disinfect the water. Sometimes called residual or available chlorine.


The amount of calcium and magnesium dissolved in the water. “Water” or “total” hardness refers to the total magnesium and calcium dissolved in the water. Calcium hardness refers to just the calcium. Measured by a test kit and expressed as ppm. The proper range is 200-400 ppm.


The name given to a family of chlorine containing compounds, including calcium hypochlorite, sodium hypochlorite and lithium hypochlorite, that are used as disinfectants and sanitizers in pool and spa water.


A substance that is neither animal nor plant. It is a chemical compound, usually inorganic in nature (no carbon atoms), which occurs naturally. Examples are quartz, feldspar or compounds of crystalline structure. It sometimes includes soluble “rocks” such as limestone. Ground water can dissolve all or a portion of these rocks and the minerals contained in these rocks, thus causing these minerals to be present in tap water. Certain geographic locations contain a high level of minerals which can cause staining and scale problems in pool and spa water.


A term given to a class of chemical compounds that are used to oxidize or shock the water (destroy ammonia, nitrogen and swimmer waste). They contain no chlorine or bromine and do not kill living organisms. swimmers may re-enter the pool in only 15 minutes after adding a non-chlorine shock.


Refers to volatile, biodegradable and sometimes combustible chemical compounds containing carbon atoms bonded together with other elements. The principal groups of organic substances found in water are proteins, carbohydrates, fats and oils. See ORGANIC WASTE.


Also called swimmer or bather waste. All of the soap, deodorant, suntan lotion, lipstick, makeup, cologne, body oils, sweat, spit, urine, etc., brought into the water. They also form chloramines, which are foul-smelling and body irritants. Requires large amounts of chlorine or non-chlorine shock to destroy.


To rid the water of ammonia, nitrogen compounds and swimmer waste (organic compounds). These organic compounds disable chlorine, are body irritants and have a foul smell. Removal is accomplished by super-chlorination or by shock treating with a non-chlorine oxidizer.


A shocking or sanitizing compound that removes or destroys built-up contaminants and chloramines in pool water. Most chlorinating, brominating, and oxygenating compounds are considered oxidizers. Usually the fast dissolving oxidizers which contain chlorine, such as hypochlorites, are typically used to “superchlorinate” the water.


A term used to indicate the level of acidity or alkalinity of pool water. The pH being too low causes etched plaster, metal corrosion and eye irritation. The pH being too high causes scale formation, poor chlorine efficiency and eye irritation. The ideal range for pH in swimming pools is 7.4-7.6


An abbreviation for parts per million. It is a weight-to-weight expression. It means 1 part in 1 million parts, such as 1lb of chlorine in 1 million lbs. of water. Many of the common pool water tests, as well as acceptable ranges, are stated a ppm. For example, free available chlorine should be kept between 1.0 and 3.0 ppm; total alkalinity should be between 80 and 120 ppm; and water hardness should be between 200 and 400 ppm.


The amount of measurable bromine/chlorine remaining after treating the water. The amount of bromine/chlorine left in the pool or spa water after the bromine/chlorine demand has been satisfied.


The precipitate that forms on surfaces in contact with water when the calcium hardness, pH or total alkalinity levels are too high. Results from chemically unbalanced pool and spa water. Scale may appear as gray, white or dark streaks on the plaster, fiberglass or vinyl. It may also appear as a hard crust around the tile.


The practice of adding significant amounts of fast-dissolving oxidizing chemical to the water to destroy ammonia and nitrogen compounds or swimmer waste.


A family of chlorine pool sanitizers that contain conditioner (cyanuric acid) to protect the chlorine from the degrading UV rays in sunlight. Most common types are sodium dichlor and trichlor. The granular form is dichlor, which is fast-dissolving and can be used for regular chlorination or super-chlorination by broadcasting into the pool or spa. Tablet or stick form is trichlor (which is usually used in a chlorine feeder- either the floating type or an in-line erosion type) used for regular chlorination only.


A discoloration or a colored deposit on the walls or bottom of a swimming pool or spa. Most often, stains are metals such as iron, copper or manganese. They may appear as green, gray, brown or black. They may even discolor the water. Sometimes a sequestering agent or chelating agent will remove them. If not, usually an acid wash is necessary to remove them from the walls and bottom. The metals get in the water because the pH was too low or someone has added a low pH chemical directly into the circulation system. The low pH chemical dissolves a small amount of metal from the equipment. The metals come out of solution and deposit or stain the surfaces of the walls and bottom of the pool. Stains are sometimes confused with scale.


The practice of adding an extra large dose of chlorine to the water to destroy ammonia, nitrogen and swimmer waste, which can build up in the water. This level of chlorine is required to destroy all of the combined chlorine in the water which is called breakpoint chlorination.


The total amount of alkaline materials present in the water. Also called the buffering capacity of the water. It is the water’s resistance to change in pH. Low total alkalinity causes metal corrosion, plaster etching and eye irritation. High total alkalinity causes scale formation, poor chlorine efficiency and eye irritation.


The total amount of chlorine in the water. It includes both free, available and combined chlorine.


Total Dissolved Solids is a measure of the total amount of dissolved material in the water. It is comprised of the spent or carrier chemicals in the water every time chemicals are added, as well as the hardness, alkalinity, chlorides, sodium, magnesium, calcium, etc. The maximum amount in pools is 2500 ppm. Maximum in spas is 1500 over starting TDS. The only way to effectively lower TDS is to drain part or all of the water and replace it with low TDS water.


A slow-dissolving tablet or granular, stabilized organic chlorine compound providing 90% available chlorine. Used for regular chlorination but must be dispensed using a floating feeder or an in-line feeder (chlorinator). Trichlor contains an ingredient that prevents the chlorine form being destroyed by UV rays of the sun. Trichlor has a pH of 2.8, and regular trichlor tabs should not be placed in the skimmer as the low pH will corrode the metal components in the equipment.


The cloudy condition of the water due to the presence of extremely fine particles in suspension that cannot be trapped by the filter because they are too small. Adding a clarifier will coagulate the particles and make the filter more efficient.


Also called coagulant or flocculant. A chemical compound used to gather or to precipitate suspended particles so they may be removed by vacuuming or filtration.

Small Decorating Ideas That Make a Big Impact around your Pool

Pool Side Planter, Trash Receptacle

Pool Side Planter, Trash Receptacle

Decorating Ideas on a Budget Using Paint, Plants, and Outdoor Rugs

Small decorating ideas can make redecorating a room very inexpensive. Before you dip into your savings, though, consider making a few smaller and less expensive changes first. You may find that a couple of small, but meaningful, changes to a room can give you the update you’ve been seeking.


There’s a reason why decorators and designers often suggest paint as a first step in redecorating. A fresh coat of pool paint, especially when it is a different color, can make a dramatic statement in a room. Changing the wall color of a room changes the mood and the way light is diffused throughout the room. Taking a dark room, for example, and making it lighter through the application of paint can make that room feel larger, fresher, and more serene. On the other hand, applying a darker hue to light-colored walls can add drama and a sense of romance to a room. To keep costs down, choose a color that is already present in the room and that will coordinate with your existing decor. Use fabrics or accent pieces in the room as inspiration for color choices.


Another easy and inexpensive change that can be made to any room is to add plants. Whether living or artificial, plants bring warmth and natural beauty to indoor spaces. They make a lush and visually appealing addition to areas that can be challenging to decorate, such as ledges, shelves, and empty corners. For best effect, choose pots or baskets for your plants that coordinate with the style of the room.

Area Rugs

The floor may be one of the most neglected areas when it comes to decorating. Adding an area rug to the floor has just as much impact on a room, though, as adding a fresh coat of paint to the walls. Area rugs define a space more effectively than furniture alone, and they help tie together the various elements in a room to make it feel like a unified whole.

Consider using an outdoor rug for your indoor redecorating. Outdoor rugs are an ideal choice to use as indoor area rugs, especially in high traffic areas of the home. Outdoor rugs are made with durable materials that can stand up to all kinds of abuse, but they are just as beautiful and soft to the touch as traditional indoor rugs. They are much easier to clean than indoor rugs, which gives them yet another advantage over standard indoor area rugs.

Updating your home doesn’t always require spending loads of money. A decorating ideas and small changes, like paint, plants, and outdoor rugs, may be all that is necessary to freshen a room and give it new life.


Outdoor Wood Furniture Care and Maintenance

Outdoor Pool Side Wood Furniture

Outdoor Wood Furniture

Tips On How To Keep Your Outdoor Pool Side Furniture Looking Like New

Often, the most attractive Outdoor Patio and Deck Furniture is made from wood. Wood is a natural product, but when exposed to moisture and changes in temperature and humidity, wood reacts in a number of different ways. Proper maintenance of your Outdoor Wood Furniture will provide a long life over many years in a variety of weather environments.

Teak Furniture is perhaps the most desirable, and arguably the most expensive, outdoor wood furniture on the market. Teak is a beautiful, honey-colored, dense, tropical hardwood that is resistant to insect infestation and contains natural oils which make it resistant to rot and decay. Unfortunately, teak trees grow very slowly and take at least 60 years to reach harvest-able size, and because teak furniture is in such high demand, teak is not as easily acquired as woods like cedar, oak, or pine. With supplies not able to meet demand, the price of teak has increased dramatically. The advantage of teak, though, is that, with proper maintenance, it can last for more than 50 years, which makes the initial investment worth it for many homeowners.

While cleaning teak is not mandated, it is not a bad idea to clean outdoor teak furniture each year to remove any buildup of pollen, sap, or mildew. Follow each cleaning with a coat of teak oil (optional) if you wish to keep the wood its original honey color.

Other tropical hardwoods, like Eucalyptus, have gained in popularity as the price of teak has grown prohibitive for many homeowners. Eucalyptus wood, like teak, is alluring, durable, hardy, and resistant to rot and insect infestation. The fast maturity of eucalyptus trees makes them more readily available and more easily affordable. Like outdoor teak furniture, outdoor eucalyptus furniture can be treated with teak oil following an annual cleaning to help preserve the wood’s natural color (if desired).

Varieties of other outdoor wooden furniture include cedar, redwood, oak, and pine. These woods, though (especially pine), must be treated with a preservative to prevent decay, which can occur rapidly if exposed to harsh weather environments. Protecting this wood furniture with a water-resistant stain, protective oil, or polyurethane is also recommended. Your local home and garden store will have many options from which to choose, and a store associate should be able to assist you in selecting the most appropriate product to be reapplied regularly (check manufacturer’s instructions for details).

Outdoor wood furniture should be cleaned once a year. Mix one tablespoon of bleach, five tablespoons of a gentle dish washing liquid, and a gallon of water, and softly rub the surface of your wood furniture with a soft bristle brush. Wash the solution from the furniture, and allow it to dry completely in the sun. Repainting or restaining wood furniture could be indicated at this time to cover and protect any worn or damaged areas.

All woods are susceptible to rot and decay if left in damp, humid, and shady areas for a long time. Wood that becomes saturated with rain water is more likely to warp and rot, so using protective covers when your furniture is not in use is strongly advised to keep your wooden patio furniture in good shape. The bases of furniture legs are definitely the most susceptible when it comes to water damage. If wood furniture is kept in the grass, at the poolside, or on a surface that collects even a small level of rain water, the legs can become easily saturated and damaged. Covering the bottoms of each furniture leg with rubberized material or small sections of cedar fencing material will help protect your furniture from rotting from the bottom up.

Finally, exposure to chemicals including solvents and chlorine, and exposure to common items such as alcoholic beverages, plants and flower nectar, and hot items (off of a grill, for example) can permanently stain and damage wood surfaces. Additionally, it is vital to prevent plastic objects, like plastic table cloths, toys, placemats, and appliance covers, from lying on wood furniture for a long period of time because plastic can discolor wood. Plastic can also stick to and damage a wood finish.

The lifespan for any wooden patio furniture depends greatly on the type of wood used and the weather it is exposed to. Properly maintaining your outdoor wood furniture can make it last for many years and maximize your investment. Outdoor wood furniture makes a quaint, charming, and nice addition to any backyard, deck, patio, or garden, and with care, it will continue to make a great impression for years to come.